Perfect White Balance Preset Creation and Verification
This article will show you how to make, preserve, and verify an accurate white balance preset. If you have a particular lighting setup that you use frequently, then you should save its white balance calibration to be able to return to it later.
Even if you use Raw format and have a photo-editing program that lets you adjust the white balance after the fact, you’ll thank yourself for getting things right before you take the shot. Also, the “Auto” white balance feature of your camera isn’t quite as smart as you might think with non-standard lighting or subjects.
If you’re doing a product shot for a client, they probably won’t remain your client for long if the color in the shots isn’t perfect. As an example, there used to be a term “Kodak Yellow”. If Kodak’s packaging wasn’t reproduced perfectly in photographs (or a magazine page), it would be quickly rejected. (Remember them?)
To create a perfect white balance, you’ll need a grey card. Your goal is to get shot histograms that have the R,G,B peaks that exactly match each other. To achieve this color perfection, you need to calibrate against a subject that is entirely neutral, like a grey card.
I’m going to show you an example using my LED ring light. Under “average” conditions, the color balance is fairly close when using “auto” white balance, but when I am doing macro shots of things like the inside of a flower, the color balance can get awful. This earlier article discusses how “auto” white balance can go terribly wrong.
My example procedures will demonstrate two cameras: the Nikon D610 and the D850. You might think that the procedures would be identical, but remember we’re talking about Nikon here. They’re generally loath to do the same thing twice. I give my white balance presets meaningful names, such as “LEDring” because I’d never be able to remember them otherwise.
Please note that there are some light sources that you cannot successfully calibrate against. An example of this would be sodium vapor street lights, which don’t contain enough of the full light spectrum.
D610 White Balance Preset Procedure
Histogram of a proper white balance
The shot above shows the D610 capture of a grey card using a white balance preset. The preset used here was the “d-2”. The D610 accepts up to 4 presets. The histogram peaks show that the capture was completely neutral, since the R,G,B peaks align perfectly. I used an LED light source, and the “d-2” preset was calibrated to this light. The procedures that follow show you how to achieve this precise calibration.
Note that a non-neutral subject photo can’t be used to verify proper white balance, since the R,G,B histogram feedback won’t show the vertical alignment of color peaks.
Capture Your Preset
Set up your light to illuminate a grey card
Press the WB button (has the ‘?’ on the button)
Spin the “main” (rear) dial to get “PRE” on the control panel
Spin the “sub-command” (front) dial to choose d-1 through d-4
Release and re-press (hold down) the WB button to get “PRE” to blink
Fill the frame with the grey card (it doesn’t have to be in focus)
Press the shutter (within 6 seconds, before PRE stops blinking)
You should see “Good” on the control panel, if it’s successful
You will see “no Gd” if the measurement fails
Name Your Preset
Go to the “Shooting” menu (the camera icon)
Select the White Balance option
Press the selector right-arrow
Select PRE Preset manual
Press the selector right-arrow
Choose the preset you used in the capture step, e.g. “d-2”
Press the ISO (the “-“ magnifier) button to select the preset
You’ll note the preset already shows “d-2:LEDring”, because the preset already had a name. This procedure will let you alter any pre-existing preset name. If you inspect both the “d-1” and “d-2” presets above, you’ll see that they have a little “key” icon at their top-right corner. This key indicates that the preset is protected and can’t be accidentally deleted. The steps that follow assume that the “d-2” preset isn’t protected.
Also note that the d-3 and d-4 presets above haven't been assigned anything yet. If they were assigned, a little picture would show behind them.
Select “Edit comment” and press the selector right-arrow
Edit the comment text using the arrows and the Ok button
If you type an incorrect letter, press the “trash can” button
Press the Qual (the “+” magnifier) button to save the name
Protect Your Preset
Select the White Balance | PRE Preset Manual option
Press the selector right-arrow
Select “Protect” and press the selector right-arrow
Note that the screen above shows “Protect OFF”; if it instead it showed “Protect ON”, then you’d know it was already protected.
Select “On”
Press the “Ok” button to finish
The preset selection screen will now have the little “key” icon on the protected preset and you can’t delete it. If you change your mind, then repeat this procedure but select the Protect “Off” choice.
Use Your D610 Preset
Press the WB button (has the ‘?’ on the button)
Spin the “main” (rear) dial to get “PRE” on the control panel
Spin the “sub-command” (front) dial to choose d-1 through d-4
D850 White Balance Preset Procedure
Histogram of a proper white balance
The shot above shows the D850 capture of a grey card using a white balance preset. The preset used here was the “d-2”. The D850 accepts up to 8 presets. The histogram peaks show that the capture was completely neutral, since the R,G,B peaks demonstrate perfect vertical alignment. I used the same LED light source as before, and the “d-2” preset was calibrated to this light. The procedures that follow show you how to achieve this calibration.
Capture Your Preset
Set up your light to illuminate a grey card
Press the WB button on the top left dial (on top of the camera)
Spin the “main” (rear) dial to select PRE
Spin the “sub-command” (front) to select the “d-1” through “d-8”
Release and re-press (hold down) the WB button to get “PRE” to blink
Fill the frame with the grey card (it doesn’t have to be in focus)
Press the shutter (within 6 seconds, before PRE stops blinking)
You should see “Good” on the control panel, if it’s successful
You will see “no Gd” if the measurement fails
Name Your Preset
Go to the “Photo Shooting” menu (the camera icon)
Select the “White Balance” menu
Press the right-arrow on the selector
Select “PRE Preset manual” and press the 'right' multiselector arrow.
Select the “d-2” (used in the capture of the LED light)
Press the “Ok” button
(Note that I had already given this preset a name, which shows when I selected the “d-2” preset).
If you inspect the “d-1” preset above, you’ll see that it has a little “key” icon at its top-right corner. This key indicates that the preset is protected and can’t be accidentally deleted. The “d-2” preset doesn’t have this key showing, so it’s not protected.
Also note that the d-3 through d-8 presets above haven't been assigned anything yet. If they were assigned, a little picture would show behind them.
Select the “Edit comment”
Press the right-arrow on the selector
You’ll note that the screen already displays “d-2: LEDring” since I had already given this preset a name. This procedure lets you change the name of the preset, if you wish.
Use the touch screen to type in the name of the preset
Use the trash can button to fix mistakes
You use the same procedure to modify the preset name
Press the “Ok” button to save the name
Protect Your Preset
Select the White Balance | PRE Preset Manual option
Press the selector right-arrow
Select the “d-2” (used in the capture of the LED light)
Press the “Ok” button
Select the “Protect” option
Press the selector right-arrow
Note in the shot above that the “d-2” preset isn’t yet protected (it says “OFF”. If it instead indicates “ON”, then you know it’s already protected.
Select “On”
Press the “Ok” button to finish
Use Your D850 Preset
Press the WB button on the top left dial (on top of the camera)
Spin the “main” (rear) dial to select PRE
Spin the “sub-command” (front) to select the “d-1” through “d-8”
Conclusion
For the occasions where you have a lighting setup that you use regularly, such as a studio, you really should use a calibrated white balance. You don’t want to rely on “auto” white balance, in case your camera sees an unusual scene and makes a poor color decision.
Professional wedding photographers will often scout a venue before the event and save the measured white balance(s) from different rooms. Smart photographers will also tack on a name to these white balances, to minimize mistakes during the shoot. If you consistently use flash instead of ambient lighting, then your preset for the room will probably get overpowered by the flash.
If you intend to use a preset white balance long-term, then it makes good sense to both name and protect that preset against accidental erasure.
Not only will the photo colors be consistently more accurate, but you’ll save a ton of time when you edit your shots.
